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The Index — Vintage watches, decoded.References, dials and variants up to 2000

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Impressum Datenschutz

Vintage Watch References · The Index

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Model families

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Brand

Decade

1940s
1950s
1960s
1970s
1980s
1990s

Dial

Gilt
Matte
Glossy

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Brand

A. Lange & Söhne70
Audemars Piguet239
Blancpain2
Breguet3
Breitling274
Bulgari6
Cartier580

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Production overlaps

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22 referencesMatte dial

Cartierc. 1960–1971
Decagonal Décagonal (Cartier London)
1 variant
- Yellow Gold, 1960sMattec. 1960–c. 1969

Credor

2

Franck Muller10

Jaeger-LeCoultre228

Nomos Glashütte1

Patek Philippe537

Philippe Dufour13

Universal Genève8

Vacheron Constantin141

Vianney Halter1

Decade

1940s
1950s
1960s
1970s
1980s
1990s

Dial

Gilt
Matte
Glossy

Cartier

1937–?

Ronde (1937 design)

2 variants

Petite, Yellow and Pink GoldMattec. 1950–c. 1959
Large, Yellow GoldMattec. 1950–c. 1959

Cartierc. 1970–c. 1979

Ronde Ronde, Full Leather Strap (Cartier Paris)

1 variant

Yellow GoldMatteUndated

Cartier1912–?

Tortue (Cartier Paris)

2 variants

Yellow Gold, Enamel BezelMattec. 1920
Platinum, Blue Enamel BezelMattec. 1920

Carrera 2447

Carrera 12

3 variants

First Execution, White Dial (S) · Early First Execution, Eggshell Dial, Standard (Slotted) BackMatte1963–?
First Execution, White Dial (S) · Early First Execution, Eggshell Dial, Polygon BackMatte1963–?
First Execution, White Dial (S) · First Execution, Eggshell Dial, Heuer-LeonidasMatte1964–?

Pilot’s Watch Mark XII and XV 3241

Mark XII

4 variants

SteelMatteUndated
Edition Cathay PacificUndated
IWC Denmark, Red Seconds HandUndated
Patrouille SuisseUndated

Portugieser 5441

Portugieser Jubilee

1 variant

Steel (1,000)MatteUndated

Jaeger-LeCoultre1965–1971

Polaris E 859

Memovox Polaris / Memovox Plongeur

3 variants

Second Generation (Matte Dial, Trapezoid Markers)Matte1966–1971
LeCoultre Signed (US Market)Undated
Tropical DialUndated

Omega1971–1974

Seamaster 176.001

Seamaster Chronograph

1 variant

176.001, Blue DialMatteUndated

Rolex?–c. 1967

Cosmograph Daytona 6238

Pre-Daytona

1 variant

Black DialMatteUndated

Rolexc. 1959–c. 1981

Datejust 1601

1 variant

Black Dial, Diamond Indexes, White GoldMatteUndated

Rolex1953–1955

Explorer 6350

1 variant

Honeycomb DialWaffle dialMatte1953–?

Rolex1960–1989

Explorer 1016

10 variants

Matte Mark 0MatteUndated
Matte Mark 1 (Frog Foot)Frog FootMatte1967–1974
Matte Mark 1, Fat LumeFat Font1967
Matte Mark 1, Mega Fat1967
Matte Mark 2Matte1969
Matte Mark 3Matte1974–1989
Matte Mark 4Matte1975–1989
Matte Mark 4, Tiffany & Co.Undated
Matte Mark 5Mattec. 1981–c. 1987
Service-Only DialMatteUndated

Rolex1971–1984

Explorer II 1655

Freccione

8 variants

Mark I DialMatte1971–1973
Mark II Frog Foot DialFrog FootMattec. 1972–c. 1977
Mark II Dial, Straight Seconds Handc. 1973
Mark III Rail DialRail DialMattec. 1974–c. 1977
Mark IV DialMattec. 1977–c. 1980
Mark V DialMattec. 1979–1984
Service Dial, Tritium (Mark VI)MatteUndated
Service Dial, Luminova (Mark VII)MatteUndated

Rolex1959–c. 1980

GMT-Master 1675

13 variants

Matte DialMattec. 1966–c. 1980
Mark 0c. 1965–c. 1966
Mark 0.51966–1967
Mark 1Long E1967–1972
Mark 1.5Undated
Mark 21972–1978
Mark 2.5Undated
Mark 3Radial1975–1978
Mark 4Undated
Mark 5Maxi Mark 51978–1980
Mark 6Mark XUndated
Black Bezel InsertUndated
Blueberry BezelBlueberryUndated

Rolexc. 1980–1988

GMT-Master 16750

1 variant

Matte DialMatte?–c. 1986

Rolex1960–1988

Milgauss 1019

3 variants

Matte Black DialMatte1960–1988
Black Dial, First SeriesUndated
Black Dial, Second SeriesUndated

Rolex1967–1983

Sea-Dweller 1665

21 variants

Single RedSRSDMatte1967–1968
Single Red, No Gas Escape Valve1967
Single Red, With Gas Escape Valve1967–1968
Double RedDRSDMatte1967–1977
Double Red Mark 0c. 1969
Double Red Mark 1c. 1967–?
Double Red Mark 2c. 1969–?
Double Red Mark 3Undated
Double Red Mark 4Undated
Double Red, No Gas Escape Valvec. 1971–?
Double Red, Tiffany & Co. SignedUndated
Rolex-COMEX First Deliveryc. 1971
Great WhiteMatte1977–1983
Great White Mark 0c. 1977
Great White Mark 1Undated
Great White Mark 2, Rail DialRail Dialc. 1977–c. 1979
Great White Mark 3Undated
Great White Mark 4Undated
COMEXMatte1977–1981
COMEX Mark 1, Rail Dialc. 1977–?
COMEX Mark 2, Service DialUndated

Rolex1978–1989

Sea-Dweller 16660

Triple Six

4 variants

Matte DialMatte1978–c. 1984
Matte Dial Mark 1Undated
Matte Dial Mark 2Undated
COMEX · COMEX, Matte DialMattec. 1981–1982

Rolex1959–1980

Submariner 5512

5 variants

Matte Dial, Meters FirstMattec. 1967–1969
Swiss – T<25 Across Three HashesUndated
Matte Dial, Feet FirstMatte1969–1980
Depth Rating Above Submariner?–c. 1975
Submariner Above Depth Ratingc. 1975–?

Rolex1962–1989

Submariner 5513

13 variants

Matte Dial, Meters FirstMattec. 1967–1969
Matte Dial, Feet FirstMatte1969–c. 1984
Non-Serifc. 1969–c. 1970
Serif?–c. 1973
Pre-COMEXPre-Comexc. 1976–c. 1977
Maxi Dialsc. 1977–c. 1984
Maxi Mark I1977–1978
Maxi Mark II1978–c. 1979
Maxi Mark IIILollipopc. 1978–?
Maxi Mark IVc. 1981–?
Maxi Mark V?–c. 1984
COMEX · Helium Valve, COMEX LogoMattec. 1972–?
COMEX · Helium Valve, No LogoMattec. 1972–?

Rolexc. 1967–c. 1979

Submariner 1680

12 variants

Red SubRed SubMattec. 1967–c. 1975
Mark Ic. 1967–?
Mark IIc. 1969–?
Mark IIIc. 1969–?
Mark IVc. 1970–?
Mark Vc. 1970–?
Mark VI?–c. 1975
Tropical (Meters First)c. 1969–?
White SubmarinerMattec. 1975–c. 1979
Mark 1c. 1975–?
Mark 2Undated
Mark 3Undated