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Patek Philippe Calatrava 96 First Series, LeCoultre Movement · The Index

First Series, LeCoultre Movement

Calatrava 96 — First Series, LeCoultre Movement

1932–c. 1935

The earliest 96s run on 12-ligne LeCoultre ébauches that Patek had bought in the 1920s for Gondolo watches; their indirect-seconds versions use under-dial gearing.

Cases by Antoine Gerlach (precious metals) and Taubert (steel). The long “Patek Philippe & Co./Cie” signature gives way to the short signature around 1948.

Early steel ref. 96 whose movement dates to c. 1914; the catalogue places it among the earliest first-series 96s on the 12-ligne LeCoultre ébauche, here without small seconds: silvered sector dial, blued hands and centre seconds. · Photo: Sotheby's · © Sotheby's, used with permission · Source: https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches/reference-96-a-stainless-steel-wristwatch-with

Identifying details

Small seconds
Subsidiary seconds dial.
LeCoultre / Jaeger-LeCoultre movement
Movement made by LeCoultre (later Jaeger-LeCoultre).

Variants of 96

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Switch between variants of this reference. The current variant is highlighted.
Variant	Production
First Series, LeCoultre MovementCurrent	1932–c. 1935
Cal. 12-120	1934–c. 1950
Cal. 12-400	c. 1950–?
Fourth Series, Cal. 27-AM-400	Undated

Case & movement

Reference: 96
Production: 1932–c. 1935
Case diameter: 31 mm
Movement: Manual winding
Date: No

Dial, bezel & hands

Unknown attributes are left out rather than guessed.

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