1985–19896 variants
The first five-digit Explorer II and a short-lived transitional reference. Cal. 3085 made the hour hand independently settable, so the watch became a true second-time-zone watch. Sapphire crystal; Mercedes hands; (dots, bars and a triangle at 12) with ; a slim red 24-hour hand with a small arrow tip; inverted triangles between the numerals. Offered in black or, for the first time, white. Drilled lugs.
Made in smaller numbers than the references either side. Dated case numbers run from about 8.4M (1985; one sold new in January 1985) through 9.1M–9.7M (1986–1987) to R serials (1987–1988). The bezel exists with a fat, square font and a slimmer font.
Faded ends mark approximate or unknown dates. Years are as stated by the cited sources.
Specs shared by all variants. Variant pages show where a variant differs.
The first white “Polar” Explorer II dial, with polished white-gold surrounds on the markers and hands. A paint defect makes most of these dials turn ivory or cream (“panna” in Italy), from light ivory to tan depending on UV exposure; Rolex replaced many at service. Dated example: case 9'421'983; see the rail sub-type for more.